Arrived as dusk fell and Siena was breaking into its final fervour. Everything was brick, stone and quiet. After Florence I was eager to get to know its proud rival.
The Siena rapido bus from Florence (just 1h, 7euros) ends at Piazza Gramsci, just a km uproad from the historic centre. We walked in.
Someone noted Siena’s “herringbone bricks worn smooth with centuries of ‘passeggiata”. I didn’t know its age-old pedestrianism (yet) but trying to catch the fading light had me eyeing the sweeps of medieval wall. People walked leisurely, following dusk’s rhythm, their coats blacks and browns blending into the old walls. I knew they’d be even more gorgeous in the daylight by the hour.
By the time I arrived at the campo, I was quite infatuated. 6:40pm, stars out, people seated on the downcurve encircling the Palazzo Publico and its Torre Del Mangia.