[San Francisco, Fisherman’s Wharf]
Yes, there were plenty. Seagulls watchful, larger, tougher than they look. This one bore witness to the artist in a wheelchair painting quiet strokes. His voice was a deep gentlemanly ‘Thank you’ to every dollar dropped. There weren’t too many. I wondered what happened to his legs.
This gull also heard the boatman’s holler to shrieking tourists (Sure you can hop on). Mainly perhaps, it saw our chowder bowl and took vigil on the bin. I flicked some sourdough; it swooped straight down, as pigeons the height of its feet scattered around.
Clam isn’t really an SF thing, and chowder actually hails from New England in the east. But how can a tummy leave Fisherman’s Wharf without its famous clam chowder in a sourdough breadbowl. There was plenty of that too, rounding out the entire corner.
Tarantino’s sidewalk cafe is quite the institution. It’s been around since just after WW2, 1946, and even if you don’t see the sign tucked up on its roof, you’ll notice the line. Their chowder was perfectly creamy, and sitting out on the last table on the sidewalk meant being blasted with bay winds. But we had our own view so i was very content.
That’s also the best place to catch San Francisco’s Bushman, and tourist chatter as they lumber past. It was just Statue-guy this time, but the ocean winds ensured everyone pretty much spoke their loudest, and that you caught their conversation as they came down the street.
..Here was also one of the rare times in SF i 1) ate something not drenched in grease (like takeout pizza) and 2) didn’t have to pay the 20% service tax (entire strip is practically a take-out option). The bread bowl’s fresh enough get chowder-drenched. I continued with it- much to the seagull’s impatience.
Good luck catching one of the only four tables outside its sidewalk cafe. Then walk on to Ghirardelli with your fingers smelling like seafood.
[. Ghirardelli. butter pecan & chocolate chip dough]
Depending on which side you start the Embarcadero traipse, you’ll hit this 1852 behemoth for either a sweet breakfast or an evening dessert. This time around, I was glad to note the scent of chocolate still hangs faintly in air, and the scaffolded name still glints with the light off the ocean.
The Ghirardelli cone comes quaintly served on metal tea plates and huge. Looking at the multi-national families, friends and couples tucking into their huge sugar bowls in a bustling brown and white Victorian-style cafe (chocolate machine!). . It felt like a modern Willy Wonka room. Got me all curled up tickled with delight on the side.